"How to Mount a Skateboard on your Wall"
(Being how i
do custom boards i suggest that you add a fabric washer
between the front of the board and the bolt)
Lots of skateboarders have decks that have some sort of
sentimental value… some of us have boards that we hold onto
because they’re limited editions, the graphics are tight,
they’re autographed, or maybe the skater just has special
memories associated with the plank in question. This
article will show you one of several ways to hang a board
on your wall so that you can enjoy the graphic, and allow
your prized possession to be a work of art.
One of the complications with hanging a board is that they
don’t rest flatly on the wall… the nose and/or tail cause
them to pop out a few inches, so nailing them directly is
out of the question (unless you have some pretty long
nails). Another problem with nailing the board directly is
that you run the risk of missing the nail and smashing into
the board itself… which may not matter if it’s a used
board, but if you’re trying to mount a board while keeping
the graphic in mint condition, consider this method. Here’s
an example of two (of several) boards I recently got around
to mounting:
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On the left is Wayne Patrick’s pro model from Aminal
Skateboards. I did the coloring for this one, so it’s a
keeper. On the right is a deck that all of the Hammond and
Missouri locals should know well… it was the first pro
model that Small Time’s ever put out, and this particular
one came from the very first batch… not to mention, it was
illustrated by our very own Randy Muller. It had to go up.
First of all, you’ll need the following things:
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This is beading wire… I got this at the hobby store. I paid
$7 for it, but you can use fishing string or any string
that will support the weight of a skateboard. This
particular wire can support 12 pounds… well more than the
average weight of a deck. You want to make sure that the
wire or string you use can be tied easily… if it’s too
stiff, it’s no good.
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Nails. It doesn’t really matter which size, just as long as
they don’t split or crack your walls.
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Bolts and nuts. These are 10-32 bolts (pronounced
ten-thirty seconds at the hardware store)… these have
regular nuts (as opposed to the locknuts that come with
regular mounting hardware). These are the exact same size
as regular truck bolts that you probably already have at
your house. For some added authenticity, you might want to
go to the shop and pick up a handful of bolts there… the
ones with the colored heads would look tight. Also of note:
use one-inch long bolts. They’ll be easier to work with
(you can do this with shorter bolts, but you’ll have to
have a steady hand).
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Scissors… these are for cutting the wire. Be careful with
them, and if you’re a real young board collector, consider
letting a parent do the cutting for you.
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Your nails are no good to you without a hammer. If using a
hammer isn’t your thing, find someone who knows what
they’re doing and let them do the deed for you.
One thing I need to mention before I go any further… if
you’re a kid, make sure you have permission to put holes in
your walls. If you’re older and renting a house or
apartment, make sure that putting nails around your place
won’t cause you to lose your deposit!
Next step:
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If you’re hanging your board vertically, use your front
truck holes. If you’re hanging your board horizontally, use
the holes closest to the top of your board when it’s on its
side (in most cases, the first and last holes on the right
side of your board).
Put your individual bolts in the opposite way that you
would if you were mounting trucks (so that the nut is on
the griptape side). Thread the nut onto the bolt, but don’t
tighten it too far… you want to leave a gap between the nut
and the deck for tying the wire. You’ll repeat this process
one more time, so that you have one bolt on either side.
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Take your wire (or string) and cut off a piece. I usually
like to cut off a strand that’s a few inches longer than
the board itself, which is way too much, but it’s easier to
cut away what you don’t need rather than be stuck with too
little. On one end, create a simple loop that you’ll be
able to tighten down… make sure that the wire twists itself
inside the loop at least once.
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Place the loop around the bolt, underneath the elevated
nut… then pull on the shorter end of the string so that it
constricts itself underneath the nut…
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Now that it’s tightened, it may be a good idea to add
another loop knot (loop the short end of the wire around
the bolt again, draw the wire underneath the wire on the
other side of the bolt, then tighten it again).
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Cut away the excess wire, and repeat the loop-knot process
for the other truck bolt. When you’re done, go ahead and
tighten the nuts down as far as you can.
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You want the wire to be loose enough so that it can be
pulled out enough to compensate for the height of your nose
and tail. As a matter of personal preference, I choose to
keep the wire tight enough so that the board doesn’t hang
below the wire when I pick it up… I want the nail and wire
to be hidden once I place it on my wall.
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Find a good spot to hang your board.
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With this method, one nail will do the trick. The nail will
be centered behind your board, so keep that in mind.
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Hang that puppy up and reminisce about the tricks that your
board has taken part in.
-taken from
http://smalltimeskates.com/sts/archives/340
